It seems every cobblestone in the Czech Republic leads you to
a new way to spark the senses, from the aroma of roasting pork knuckle in a
forested village to glittery Art Nouveau cafes crowning Prague’s historical
center. The country is all at once rooted in Slavic tradition yet brimming with
artistic and civic innovations.
Yes, the tales of perfect and plentiful cheap Czech beer do
ring true, but this central European gem is so much more than that. Imagine
soaking in spas, sleeping in castles and hiking to a subterranean
river.
1. Soak in Bohemian Spas
Spa colonnades in Karlovy Vary |
The warm, mineral-rich
groundwater of West Bohemia has been renowned for its relaxing and restorative
prowess for centuries; Beethoven, Goethe and Casanova were all devotees. Three Czech towns – Karlovy Vary, Mariánské Lázně and Františkovy Lázně –
form an opulent “spa triangle”, and treatments can
be found for a steal compared to Western prices.
Aside from the curative elements of a visit, the cake
frosting-esque colonnades and frescoes bedecking these spa centers are pure eye
candy. In Karlovy Vary, purchase a porcelain cup and follow the locals around
to decorative fountains for swigs of spring water, or visit Moser glassworks or
the factory that produces the Czech herbal liqueur Becherovka. And then go for
another massage.
For another, more “hoppy” wellness option, head 10km south of
Mariánské Lázně for a proper spa
experience in a bath of – you guessed it – Czech beer. Connect with the
Chodovar Brewery for more information.
Let's rock! |
Along the Czech-Polish border, cities of rock rise from the Earth, ready to charm and cradle visitors eager to see their peaks and crags. It’s the stuff of Czech fairytales – sandstone formations named things like “mouse hole,” “sugar loaf,” and “elephant square” – and they're utterly enchanting. Within the Adršpach -Teplicerock region, one can find waterfalls, a turquoise lake with local boat rides and cozy pubs to quench explorers’ thirst.
Interestingly, the area is home to one of Europe’s largest breeding sites for the Peregrine Falcon, which is protected by federal law. You’ll also most likely see rock climbers and jumpers. Stay the night in Trutnov and take a train to the rocks early in the morning so you and the falcons can have them all to yourselves. Walking trails vary from easy to more arduous; e-mail info@skalyadrspach.cz for more information on specific routes.
3. Go
“houby hunting”
Dezidor / Wikimedia Commons |
Forget
beer – Czechs and mushrooms (houby) go hand-in-hand. Wild mushroom foraging May
through October is a national hobby that not only gets people out into fresh
air but also provides a bit of earthy nature on the dinner table. Ample areas
around Prague include the Kunratice Forest and Obora Hvězda, though weather
conditions and numbers of pickers can dictate where the ‘shrooms are most
prolific. The best rule of thumb for anywhere in the country is to head into
woodsy areas that get decent sun the day after a good rain. But beware!
Poisonous varieties do exist, and it's imperative that one consults a field
guide and/or knowledgeable local. Consult the Czech Mycological Society for assistance and check
out this Prague TV guide for photos. If you’d like to access a tour guide,
consider Prague Off the Map’s alternative tours. Don't forget a sharp knife, a clean basket and a big
appetite.
4. Behold the bones (and more)
A bony coat of arms |
While spending time with
skeletons may not sound seductive, the “bone church” in Sedlec, near Kutná Hora, really is a
sight to behold. Bedecked in the bones of tens of thousands of plague and war
victims, the Gothic church and its basement ossuary are fetching in a macabre
sort of way. Fibulas, ribs, skulls and even malleus (those are ear bones) form
ornate pyramids, chandeliers and even a coat of arms.
The adjoining church was
built on its spot thanks to a Cistercian abbot who sprinkled dirt from the Holy
Land there. When the plague hit in the mid-14th century, it became a
highly sought-after burial place. Around 1511, a half-blind monk exhumed
skeletons and stacked the bones, and in 1870, a local woodcarver was employed
to put them in order; he arranged them into the elaborate designs you can see
today.
The town of Kutná Hora
has more to offer, as well; the stunning St. Barbara Cathedral, a lovely
historic center, and a medieval silver mine make for a perfect day excursion
outside of Prague. Tour companies offer trips, but it’s cheaper and quite easy
to go by train yourself.
5. Catch some Zs in a Czech
castle
Chateau Hruba Skala by Marzper / Wikimedia Commons |
Castles and chateaus aren't just for princesses. Slip into
royal slumber after eating, drinking and being merry in one of many stately
structures around the country. Suggestions? At Chateau Herálec,
unwind above a 17th century orangery. Snooze elegantly on a 14th century
foundation in the Chateau Hrubá Skála.
At Štiřín Castle, check out
the chapel's Baroque alter festooned with Venetian mirrors. And for a more
Spartan experience, the Cejkovice Chateau has basic rooms from the era of the
Knights Templar, in the Czech Republic’s wine region. A bit of online research
will turn up myriad options.
I'm so into Prague right now, this isn't helping at all! Great list!
ReplyDeleteHey thanks, Polly! I'll post Part 2 in a couple of days. I like playing guidebook on this Travel Tuesday thing :)
DeleteI've heard so much about those spa towns! I don't feel "old enough" to visit but I'm sure they're beautiful! Thanks for sharing!
ReplyDeleteCheers, Van! All ages welcome :) They're really reasonable compared with any spa I ever saw in the U.S., especially the "Laznes."
DeleteWow, the bone church looks interesting! Something different from the usual European churches
ReplyDeleteHi Sammy! Yeah, it's a sight to behold. Not very big, but definitely worth the trip from Prague. One of the oddest things I've seen as a traveler...
DeleteI'd love to travel around the Czech Republic!
ReplyDeleteDo it Do it Do it! It's a truly beautiful country with loads of quaint little spots :)
DeleteThat's so cool! I didn't know about most of those things and now I feel a need to experience them all! That bone church looks so weird and amazing! I mean not sure how I would feel having it in front of me, but I just find it fascinating though! And would love to stay at a Czech castle, that yellow terrace looks exquisite! :)
ReplyDeleteYeah, I was a bit timid about the bones, too, but they look more artistic than macabre. Yes to sleeping in castles! :)
Delete