Czech culture learning materials

As a teacher, I'm constantly compiling materials for lessons, so I thought, why not gather some materials that I've used for learning about the culture here in the Czech Republic?

Anyone can jump on Amazon and search for books on Czech customs and culture. The list I've got here is comprised of things that have helped me understand the dark humor, the lean toward egalitarianism, the penchant for house-slippers, in a more holistic manner.

Of course, the best thing you can possibly do to better grasp Czech norms is spend time with actual natives (and you should make every effort to!); these items are only meant to be supplemental.

Things that have helped me understand Czech culture*
*And please do recommend more

1. Films. Ask your Czech friends for some suggestions. I've been directed toward, which are all comical yet disconcerting at the same time:

From "Closely Observed Trains"

• Pupendo - about the difficulty of family life under Communism in the 1980s

• Closely Observed Trains - a coming-of-age story set during WWII in German-occupied Czechoslovakia, based on a novel

• Firemen's Ball - satire about Eastern European Communism, centered around a village's bumbling fire department

2. Literature, of course! (Sorry, Kafka, for not listing you.)

From the "Unbearable Lightness of Being" film adaptation, starring Daniel Day Lewis and Juliette Binoche. 

The book is better.

• The Unbearable Lightness of Being by Milan Kundera. Placed in 1968 during the Prague Spring, this philosophical book about the tangled existence of four broken people is one of the most transformative things I've ever read, and I'm not exactly sure why. 

• The Little Town Where Time Stood Still by Bohumil Hrabal (also the author of "Closely Observed Trains). The story of a zany and delightful young brewer's wife in rural Czechoslovakia in the 1930s, and how political change impacts her village.

• No Saints or Angels by Ivan Klima. Set in modern Prague, a divorced dentist must confront her family's Stalinist past whilst managing her difficult teen daughter, ex-husband and new love. It provides a frank picture of current drug culture in the city city, too.

• Now that we're becoming parents, I've enjoyed perusing bookshops for Czech children's books, which I'm beginning to be able to read: Here's a list.

3. Theatre. I still can't understand theatre in Czech, but here are some good foreigner-friendly bets:

I couldn't find a theatre gif, so here is Tom Hulce as a young Mozart in Czech director Milos Forman's award-winning film "Amadeus"

• English performances of Jara Cimrman plays at the Žižkovské divadlo in Prague 3. Cimrman is a fictional playwright who "wrote" many of this country's most famous comedies, most of which are set in the early 1900s. They are side-splitting hilarious!

• Drama and opera with the Czech National Theatre. A number of performances have English subtitles, and you will be blown away by the quality of theatre here for the price. I can't recommend Czech theatre highly enough.

4. Hiking. I've written about it many times on this blog - from a visiting parent hike to a hike where we found odd things. 

I love it because it gets us out of Prague and into various villages and landscapes; this country and culture is so much more than its capitol city. It forces us to use our Czech language more, too.

Are you an expat who has other tricks for learning about the local culture? Or are you a Czech who has suggestions for doing so? I'm always looking to learn more, so - again - please do share materials and ideas!

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In the Christmas spirit

There is a complete lack of snow here in Prague; apparently Jack Frost is holed up with the Grinch somewhere. So we've been striking up Christmas spirit on our own, and trying to do it in a more Czech manner than we have in the past. 

The flat is bedecked in spangly things, mostly left by our dear Australian friends who moved back home this past Summer. It's been lovely not only having our abode extra-cheery, but also having a constant reminder of our pals. It's not pictured, but this year we hung a fat bunch of Czech mistletoe; it's sold on every corner right now in Prague. It doesn't have the connotation with kissing that it does in the U.S., though.

My excellent Czech teacher Š. recently taught me the Czech Christmas carol "Veselé Vánoční Hody," which means "Happy Christmas Feast." There is a lot of antiquated Czech language in it, though, so it was a challenge to translate.

Of course we've been doing the Christmas market circuit in Prague, which is sizeable. Old Town Square is of course merry, but choked with tourists.

My personal favourite is the one at Náměstí Míru in Prague 2, which we saw at night.

However, we attended a new one this year, which was only on for one weekend - the Charity Advent Market at the Maltese Palace in Prague 1. 

We haven't watched it yet, but this year we're going to view the whole Tři oříšky pro Popelku, a famous Czech Christmas movie about a princess - and here it is on Youtube with English subtitles.

And finally, we've done a lot of Christmas-y celebrating, from attending a Duchess and the Kittens concert where a band of roving Santas collecting money for charity showed up, to helping friends pick out a tree at the farmer's market, to attending my staff holiday party, where I had kids write notes to teachers and then made them into a paper chain and strung them around the room.

 

For information about Czech Christmas customs, click HERE. I don't think I'll be sprinkling fish scales around the house, though...

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Czech things that intimidate me

I used to throw the hammer in college and have broken up my share of high school brawls. However, there are a few things that I'm too big a wimp to sample whilst living in the Czech Republic. Here's what and why:

- Slevomat.cz

This is the Czech version of U.S. sites such as Groupon and LivingSocial. The content - discounts on body waxing and rotating sushi - doesn't intimidate me, but the vernacular does; it's all in Czech. I'm at the point now where I can understand conversations on the tram and can speak like a toddler, but don't feel confident purchasing an item or service with fine print I can't properly understand. Even if it means 25 percent off a round of laser tag.

- Tlacenka

I.e. headcheese in a a viscous gelatin. I think of brains as zombie food. I just can't.

- Ambivalence toward nudity

This is an item I wish I was more relaxed about. I admire this body-positive, non-sexualised consideration of the human figure au naturale. It's normal to see little ones frolicking in a fountain sans clothing on a hot summer day, or a woman breastfeeding her child in a cafe, or elderly people sunbathing in their gardens in their skivvies. On a recent trip to the Krkonosse Mountains, I even ran into a hiking group with their tops (but not bras) off. I wish I felt that ease. Below is Jan Saudek, a Czech artist famous for photography featuring nudes.

By Karolína Černá - FilmCZ.Info

- Mliko

I don't think a glass full of beer foam with just a smidgeon of liquid at the bottom is a hugely popular thing - but it's still a thing. Perhaps it's an elixir of youth; I've mostly seen older gentlemen order it. Even so, I'd sooner go thirsty than gulp a foamy substance.

*Last 3 photos via Wikimedia Commons

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A pig bits tradition: Zabijacka

Caveat: Vegan/vegetarian friends, you may want to skip this post.

Before moving to the Czech Republic, one of the only frames of reference BW had about the country was an Anthony Bourdain TV episode that features a traditional village pig slaughter - a zabijačka. Foodie that he is, BW was enamored. So when our Czech friend told us there would be a zabijačka in Prague 1, we jumped at the chance to go. 

It was put on by the Ambiente restaurant group in the courtyard of Čestr steakhouse, near the Muzeum metro stop, so we weren't in a village, but we were surrounded strictly by Czechs and we did eat lots of pig parts. So I call it sufficient. 

The Cestr courtyard, with the National Museum in the background

The Cestr courtyard, with the National Museum in the background

As we arrived at the event a few hours after it had started, we didn't see the butchering, which is fine by me. Done traditionally, you would wake up at the crack of dawn and begin preparing foodstuffs like vegetables, barley and seasonings.

Using intestine for sausage casings

Using intestine for sausage casings

I read on Wikipedia this rural tradition thrived under Communism, as it was much cheaper to raise and butcher food at home. Nowadays EU regulation dictates a number of things, from how pigs need to be rendered unconscious as to not suffer and what hygienic precautions need to be in place. Of course, it's a controversial practice and many animal rights groups would like it panned, pardon the pun.

It seems it's a dying tradition. (So punny today.)

The line for pig parts was verrrrrry long

The line for pig parts was verrrrrry long

It was freezing outside, yet we pigged out. Nearly all the parts of the bovine were cooked or utilized in the process, as you can see below...

Prdelačka - blood soup. Our pooch looks dubious; so were we

Prdelačka - blood soup. Our pooch looks dubious; so were we

Bread with vepřové sádlo - pig lard

Bread with vepřové sádlo - pig lard

I think this is ovar - boiled, salty white meat

I think this is ovar - boiled, salty white meat

Some řízek (schnitzel) and tlačenka (head cheese)

 

Some řízek (schnitzel) and tlačenka (head cheese)

Jitrnice - a white sausage the consistency of pudding

Jitrnice - a white sausage the consistency of pudding

It was tasty and I'd consider going again, but not in temperatures that made icicles of my appendages. To see the Anthony Bourdain episode - for mature audiences and those not offended by meat processing - click below:

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A Burčák journey

It's Burčák season again! Sure, the beverage smells a touch like Yellowstone National Park's sulfurous hot springs (read: eggy), but it's a beloved element of Fall here in the Czech Republic. Essentially, it's a seasonal sweet wine made from young Moravian grapes, a bit cloudy and very likely to set your head a-spin after a couple of glasses.

Although Burčák is available all over Prague, we hopped on a bus to the town of Mělník for a wine festival to get into the spirit of the local drink.

The buses going out of Prague were so packed by Burčák revelers that it took almost two hours longer to get there than planned. But the wait for a space on a bus was worth it!

Graffiti at the bus station

Initially we were welcomed by a tacky fun fair and, having never been to Mělník before, I was worried that this was the festival.

But we soon discovered the town center, packed with wine stalls and music and food and handmade goods. It was 100kc ($5) each to get in. Bacchus was alive and well in this space.

There was an incredible overlook on the edge of the local castle grounds, which were adjacent to the center. We also saw St. Peter and St. Paul's Church and the surrounding vineyards. 

There couldn't have been a more perfect backdrop for our glasses of Burčák. Na zdraví!

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